By Paul Bryers

• Morning and Afternoon Itinerary: Moroccan Cooking Class
• Meals: Cooking Class at L’atelier Cafe Boutique

Following a late breakfast at the Riad, which offered stunning morning ocean views…..

…..I strolled through the quiet alleys and encountered a friendly wee hairy dog called Dylan before meeting Said.

Said then drove me to L’Atelier Cafe Boutique for my Moroccan cooking class.

The kitchen was impeccably organized, reminiscent of my recent residential cooking classes with Lisa Warren DeMars at Casa Gregoria in Italy.

The class consisted of a diverse group of fellow apprentice chefs from Denmark, Germany, Belgium, and France.

We prepared a starter of finely chopped courgette with garlic and spices and a traditional Tajine dish featuring sea bream, carrot, potato, tomato, green pepper, pickled and preserved lemon, and olives, all infused with a chermoula marinade.

The chermoula marinade was composed of common ingredients, including garlic, cumin, coriander, oil, lemon juice, and salt, supplemented with ground chili peppers, black pepper, salt, saffron, and other spices and herbs.

We began by slowly cooking the finely chopped courgette and preparing the marinade and Tajine ingredients.

Once the courgette was cooked to el dente, ….

….we set it aside and assembled the Tajine ingredients in the Tajine.

We then placed our names in Arabic in the lid cavity of the Tajine allowed the Tajine to cook for approximately 50 minutes …..

…..while we visited the fish market to explore the aromatic spices provided by the school’s supplier, Mr. Mohammed Seddiki.

This experience was truly enriching, as we had the opportunity to smell and sample an array of exquisite spices and even apply black amber and musk to our skin. I smelt delicious.

A particular highlight was the Nigella seeds, which were rubbed together in a cloth and inhaled deeply through each nostril, providing a potent and invigorating sensation. Historically, these seeds have been used to alleviate respiratory issues, including runny noses and head colds. They can also be fried and used as a fragrant lint or crushed and soaked in vinegar to remedy chronic headaches.

Upon our return to the school, we had the pleasure of savoring our culinary creations. The meal was truly delicious, and I extend my commendations to the school and my fellow chefs for a truly enjoyable experience.

Presently, I am indulging in a well-deserved siesta, feeling thoroughly satiated.

By Paul Bryers

• Afternoon and Evening Itinerary: Wee Exploration of Essaouira medina
• Accommodation: Riad Mimouna
• Meals: Cafe Verd and Il Mare

Wee walk in Medina:

Following check-in at my Riad, I embarked on a brief exploration of the medina, situated beside the tall city wall with the Atlantic Ocean pounding behind.

I found this medina more appealing than that of Marrakesh, owing to its less noisy and intense atmosphere. The architecture and quaint shops were particularly noteworthy.

Lunch consisted of crepes at Cafe Verd, located near the beach. Very good.

And another wee walk around:

After a brief siesta, I went for a wee walk along the top of the city wall and ramparts as the sun began to slip down. Fantastic sea views.

Just before sunset, I went to Il Mare, situated beside the city wall and Ocean, which provided a great dining place and view of the sunset over the Ocean.

I was lucky enough to sit beside a woman from Cork, Ireland and her daughter and we had a great chat. A lot better than dining alone.

The food was great – fresh oysters followed by fried calamari.

Accommodation:
Riad Mimouna was accessible via a man-powered cart ride (for my luggage) from my carriage stop, navigating through the old medina alleyways and shops. The ambiance was preferable to that of Marrakech.

The Riad itself was beautiful, boasting serene common areas.

My room was lovely, featuring open windows onto a hallway above the internal courtyard, which in turn had windows open to the sea below. The views of the sea and beach were stunning, complemented by the beautiful fresh sea air and the soothing sound of waves; my favorite bedroom sounds.

The restaurant and bar on the rooftop had the same great views and I enjoyed my welcome mint tea from that location.

By Paul Bryers

• Morning Itinerary: Drive ~ 3 hrs Marrakesh to Essouria
• Guide/Driver: Said^

My carriage – no not the horse drawn carriage, the SUV…awaited me this morning, my driver, Said, at the wheel for our journey to Essauoria.

Economy:
The wee towns we drove through reminded me that while Morocco is a middle-income country with a diverse, market-oriented economy, living standards are lower by international standards. People work very hard to make a living.

My understanding is that Morocco has made progress in reducing poverty and improving basic services, but multidimensional poverty (considering factors like education, employment, health, and housing) remains an issue, particularly in rural areas.

I believe that travel is a political act. Your behaviour reflects your country, Scotland in my case.
You can read as many books as you like but the only way to get to understand a country, even a little bit, is to visit or better live there.

For example, Arabic countries are by far the most friendly and family and community orrientated anywhere I have travelled.

Travel is also an opportunity for economic impact. Buying truly local is not always as easy as it seems. In Morocco, using a Morocco- based travel company helps, as does staying and eating at owner run Riads and Restaurants. Yes, I could get the public buses but frankly I’m not doing that alone.

Public Transport:
As in many African countries public transport has failed to keep up with it’s growth, with seemingly hours-long traffic jams a common feature of many metropolises.

This has got to do largely with the colonial planning systems that have been adopted and inherited on the Continent. Urban areas were segregated and hence fragmented and so formal transport provision was largely intended for the formal city or … the ‘white area’.”

Poor planning since then has meant that people moving to cities have largely not been catered for.

For tourists exploring Morocco, the choices are mainly public or private buses or private car with driver.

I opted for the latter as I’m getting lazy, for the additional comfort, for some company, and that I want to cover a lot of ground 2000 kms/1300 miles) in 14 days.

Journey Marrakesh to Essauoria:
Lecture over 😃 … back to the journey to Essaouria.

Our drive to Essauoria took as through Marrakesh and then on to country roads sided by many beautiful dry stone dykes/walls (reminding me of Scotland), sand and stones and the occasional orchard of Calabash Trees.

Document checks were infrequent as I’m white and look reasonably respectable 😃 – lot of speed traps.

Coffee/WC stop was important and we were joined by a rally. Wonder if they are required to obey the speed limits? Probably not as they passed us at some speed…

We finally came to the crest of a hill and below lay Essaouria and the glittering Atlantic Ocean.

Guide/Driver:
Said^ is from Sahara and, like me, prefers the countryside to cities.

He kept me safe obeying the many speed restrictions – important even in the countryside and wee towns where there was, from my perspective, some craziness from drivers and peds, as well as dogs and goats.

^ Supplied by Luxury Tours Morocco

By Paul Bryers

• Afternoon’s Itinerary: Medina Sights, Marrakech
• Guide: Maryam^
• Driver: Mr Said^
• Meals: L’Mida

Guided Walk:
Following a second breakfast at my hotel, I met my guide Maryam and we embarked on a comprehensive exploration of Marrakesh, commencing with a guided tour of the Medina’s key attractions.

We navigated, with purpose, through the vibrant souks’ alleyways near Jemaa el-Fnna Square.

These were filled with noisy sellers, even more noisy motorbikes and very exotic scents and tastes – cumin, cardamom, amber, jasmine….

I saw a nice ass and we found some quiet alleys too..

Bahia Palace:
I discovered the opulent beauty of the Bahia Palace as Maryam took me through its enchanting halls and intricately designed gardens. I marveled at the stunning Moorish architecture adorned with vibrant tiles, delicate carvings, and ornate ceilings.

Dar el Bacha:
This is a grand residence built in 1910 and was once the home of Thami El Glaoui, who was appointed as the Pasha of Marrakech by Sultan Moulay Youssef in 1912. In 2017, the building was renovated by the NFM and transformed into a museum that serves as a prime example of traditional Moroccan architecture.

This is evident from the fountains, the traditional salons, and the courtyard filled with pomegranate and orange trees.

The residence also contained a hammam, or Turkish bath, which is a traditional public bathing ritual that involves steam, heat, and cleansing rituals. The term comes from Arabic and means “heat” or “warmth”. 

The procedure typically involves moving through rooms of different temperatures to open skin pores, use black soap, and rinse off before ending the session in a cold room.

Heat comes from underfloor fires which also often heat tajine kitchens.

In Morocco, Hammam can be a weekly social and spiritual practice

There are also exhibits of typical household items.

Nowadays, it is host to many cultural exhibitions. For example, handwoven rugs from different regions of Morocco made by women to supplement the family income.

Madrassa Ben Youssef:
Ben Youssef Madrassa is a medieval Islamic school and a masterpiece of Moroccan architecture.

We admired its intricate zellij tiling, delicate stucco plasterwork, and beautifully carved cedar wood.

The small Mosque for students was intricately carved.

You can see why this school is one of Marrakech’s most ornate historic sites.

Guide/Driver:
Maryam did an excellent job providing the background to the souks and historic sites. She also helped me buy some organic healing potions from a natural pharmacist, as well as booking me a lunch at L’Mida Restaurant.

Mr Said kept us safe and stayed calm despite the horrific traffic and some aggressive verbiage being hurled his way.

Meals:
Breakfast: At Riad. It was OK.

Lunch: At L’Mida – On the Rooftop, overlooking the Medina. Excellent. I had:

• L’Mida Mocktail (Cucumber, Lime, Cilantro, liquidized with ice)
• Red Hummus (Calamari rad hangout, Red Pepper, Tahini, Lemon juice)
• Fish Tajine (Red Snapper with Charmoula, Potatoes, Eggplant, Zucchini, Cherry Tomatoes.

Everything was really tasty, especially the mocktail and the calamari, and the waiters were lovely and attentive to the old dog (me).

^ Supplied by Luxury Tours Morocco

By Paul Bryers

* Morning’s Itinerary: Sunrise Hot Air Balloon, Marrakech

* Accommodation: Riad Palais des Princesses & SPA

Hot Air Balloon:

I was picked up by Ciel d’Afrique at just after 6 am and we arrived at the take off site at about 6.45 am. 

After a croissant and coffee breakfast in Berber tents and a short safety briefing, the balloons were further inflated,……

…we took to the air at about 7.30 am …

……..to view the sunrise over the Atlas Mountains around 7.45 am. 

We continued to flow West with the wind, creating a beautiful armada of colors against the blue Moroccan sky.

EasyJet flew buy an orange balloon – Note: EJ – YOU DO NOT have my permission to use this photo unless you pay me $$$$…

Our (possibly) SUV and balloon/basket trailer following us at speed to be there for our landing…

After landing around 8.30 am,….

….and observing some wildlife,…..

…there was an ample breakfast and then we drove back to Marrakech, arriving about 10.15 am.

Wonderful experience – prices seemed to vary but around US$300 pp.

Accommodation:

The Riad Palais des Princesses was really beautiful. About 5 mins walk from the very noisy and busy Jemma el-Fna Square, it was very quiet. 

The common areas were tastefully decorated and there was a heated (!), small indoor pool. 

My bedroom was on the top floor and looked down into the courtyard.The bedroom itself was lovely with plenty of room and a wee sitting area. 

By Paul Bryers

• Overall Itinerary

I will be providing a daily integrated textual and pictorial post here of this 14 day tour.

This post is just to introduce my overall, awesome and ambitious Morocco route, which is depicted below.

The specific route is as follows (# nights):
Marrakech (2) – Essaouira (2) – Safi – Qualidia – El Jadida (1) – Azzemour – Casablanca (1) – Rabat – Chefchaouen (2) – Volubilis – Meknez – Fès (2) – Ifran – Midelt – Erfoud (1) – Merzouga (1) – Erg Chebbi – Dades (1) – Quarzazatate – Ait Ben Haddou – Marrakech (1)

Transportation will be provided by private SUV with an English language driver, Mr. Said, and expert English language guides will be organized as needed.

A subsequent post later today will report on Day 1.

https://www.theorganizedscot.com
https://luxurytoursmorocco.com/ #luxurytoursmoroccoco

By Paul Bryers

• Day Itinerary: Fly Cairo to Marrakech, Morocco

The Planes:

The:
~ 5.5 hr flight Cairo to Casablanca on a Royal Air Maroc (RAM) 737-8MAX, flight AT273 (covering ~ 3,700 kms/2300 miles) and
~ 1 hr flight Casablanca to Marrakech on a RAM ATR Turboprop, flight AT413 (covering ~ 200 kms/124 miles)
were OK.

The business seat on Cairo flight was comfortable, being wide with a slight decline available.

The “business seat” on the 1 hr hop to Marrakech was, well… not…

The amenity bag on the Cairo flight was filled with nice smelly thinks like face spray, lip balm and moisturizer – smells were of argan, prickly pear (excellent in a cocktail) and verbena essential oils. Its impossible to fly without such luxuries 😃. They also help disguise the smell of my dirty trainers 😔 . They are super dirty after all the Egyptian sand..

Breakfast on the Cairo flight was good – fresh fruit with tasty, spiced omelet and potato, yoghurt and pastries.

Dinner in the Marrakesh flight was ….absent…

There was no onboard wifi or entertainment on either flight – so plenty of time to write this post and remember my AMA Egyptian Blueberries….

The Journey:

As we as ascended into the dust layer hanging over Cairo, I got my last glimpses of the city and the Nile.

Then as we flew further North into Lower Egypt we met the Mediterranean Sea and the North entry to the Suez Canal. Loads of huge ships were positioned in the sea close to the locks, awaiting entry.

We then headed out over the Med leaving the coast and Egypt behind.

We passed over Sicily and right above Mt Etna which was emitting vapors. I recognized Taormina.

As we flew across there were lovely mountains and beaches – saw Palermo..

With about 1.5 hrs to go we reached the Balearics and flew over Palma de Majorca…..

….and then Ibiza….

….SE Spain…

And finally, after flying across the European Mediterranean, Africa is once again just in front with Casablanca only about 30 mins away.

And finally, finally a glimpse of Casablanca.

After some shenanigans at Casablanca we finally took off for Marrakesh, passing some desert on the way.

And thus the long travel day from Egypt ended and the new Morocco trip commenced.

https://www.the organizedscot.com
https://luxurytoursmorocco.com/

La Abdeen Royal/Presidential Palace, Cairo, Egypt
~ 25°C/75°F (at 7 am)

By Paul Bryers

With this post I wrap up my 15 days adventure with AMA Waterways.

And it has been an excellent adventure, thanks to all the AMA staff involved, and in particular, George, Sahem, Mohammed, Mostafa and Jhon.

So, today, AMA outdid themselves with a tour of the La Abdeen Palace followed by a lunch in the magnificent dining room.

La Abdeen District is the home of Abdeen Palace, a 19th-century Cairo palace built by Khedive Ismail and served as the Egyptian royal household’s primary official residence from 1874 until the July Revolution in 1952. Since then it has been one of the presidential palaces.

The lower floor of the palace today is a museum, located in the Old Cairo district of Abdeen.

However, the upper floors (the former living quarters of the royal family) are normally reserved for visiting foreign dignitaries. But AMA managed to get us a private viewing and lunch.

Built under the rule of Ismail Pasha, to become Egypt’s official government headquarters instead of the Citadel of Cairo (which had been the center of Egyptian government since the Middle Ages), this palace was used as well for official events and ceremonies.

The construction started in 1863 and continued for 10 years and the palace was officially inaugurated in 1874.

The palace was designed by the French architect Léon Rousseau along with a large number of Egyptian, Italian, French and European decorators.

A new wing was added by Joseph Urban in 1891.

The palace’s garden was added in 1921 by Sultan Fuad I; the garden today sports a lovely landscaped pool.

The palace has 500 rooms.

Particularly notable are the royal red and gold carpeted main stairway and hallways….

…..and the gorgeous chandeliers and ceiling moldings…

The theater is wonderful….

The main reception area is magnificent….

The fountain/relax room was extraordinary…

The dining room and surrounds were impressive…

So that’s it! Back to the St Regis on the bus.

Thanks AMA for an excellent time – go cruising with them if you can.

I’m up early tomorrow to catch my flight to Marrakech, Morocco.

Final Sunset and Sunrise, Luxor, Egypt
~ 25°C/75°F (at 7 am)

By Paul Bryers

Last night we enjoyed our final sunset on the Nile near Luxor. The setting sun hid behind palm trees as it descended.

And then early this morning, the new sun greeted us on our way to the airport bound for Cairo. The rising sun appeared to hop one from suspended telegraph wire to the next….

Morning Itinerary: Dendra Temple Complex, Dendra, Egypt
~ 35°C/97°F (at 12 pm)

By Paul Bryers

There was an Anglo-Saxon tourist close by me today who was a real laurel spaffer…bless….

Anyway….

The Dendera Temple complex, situated approximately 2.5 kilometres southeast of Dendera, is one of the best-preserved temple complexes in ancient Egypt.

The entire complex is surrounded by a substantial mudbrick wall, which is best viewed from the roof, accessible via a hot and humid climb within the walls.

The structures throughout the complex were constructed over multiple eras, including the Middle Kingdom, the Ptolemaic Era, and the Roman provincial rule period.

Key features of the complex include:

Roman Mammisi:
The Roman mammisi, a subsidiary building located before the Temple of Hathor, dates back to the reigns of Trajan and Marcus Aurelius. Numerous reliefs depicting Trajan making offerings to Egyptian deities are visible.

Hathor Temple:
The Temple of Hathor dominates the complex, with its structure commanding attention. The original temple underwent continuous modifications throughout the Middle Kingdom and up until the beginning of Trajan’s reign.

The existing temple’s structure began construction in 54 B.C.E, during the late Ptolemaic period under Ptolemy Auletes.

• Great Vestibule of Pronaos:
  Upon entering the temple, one is immediately confronted with enormous rows of columns and a roof above, covered in carvings/paintings with some still bearing vibrant colors – this is in the Great Vestibule of Pronaos.

• Hypostyle Hall:
  Following this is the Hypostyle Hall with its many columns. The hypostyle hall was built during the Roman period under Tiberius.

– Antichambers
Then, there are two antechambers before reaching the sanctuary.

• Subrooms, including Roman Kiosk
  There are numerous storerooms, labs, and wardrobes adjacent to these main rooms, including a lovely Roman Kiosk.

• Roof
  A processional stairway leads to the roof of the temple, where reliefs on the walls depict scenes from rituals performed at the temple. The staircase shows wear from millennia of use and an apparent accretion of material, earning it the informal name of “the melted stairs.”

The roof offers great views as to the size of the complex and to the surrounding mud brick walls and entry gates.

You can also see the Kiosk of Hathor.

The stairwell down is a straight shot.

• Catacombs/Crypts
  You have to be pretty bendy to get down here and it’s very claustrophobic. An opening in the Flame Room floor leads to a very narrow chamber with representations on the walls of the objects which were kept in them. In the second chamber, a relief depicts Pepi I offering a statuette of the God Ihy to four images of Hathor.

Sacred Lake and Sanatorium:
This would have functioned similarly to a Roman bathhouse, but strictly for bathing and an overnight stay to manifest healing dreams. The waters at Dendera were sacred and were often used to bless the inscriptions on statues so that they could cure diseases.

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