Countryside

Day 5 (#1): Rome and a Week of Cooking Classes in Castro Dei Volsci, Italy, September/October 2025

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Municipality of Arpino

By Paul Bryers

Following an early breakfast on the veranda……

…we embarked on a visit to the Municipality of Arpino to explore the cultivation, harvesting, and production of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Cold Press.

Arpino is a charming small hilltop town. We had the opportunity to view it from the elevated Acropolis di Civitavecchia….

…And then from ground level….

The Acripolis is a historic site featuring a castle, walls constructed from massive boulders, intriguing arches, and breathtaking views.

The olive bushes on this particular farm are several hundred years old, necessitating the use of specialized tools for harvesting. The oil exhibited the characteristic just-cut-lawn aroma and a distinct peppery flavor.

Generally, oil of this quality can be stored in dark glass bottles at room temperature for approximately 20 months before it begins to degrade. I bought a tin for Glasgow – to go with my Deep Fried Mars Bars.

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Day 4: Rome and a Week of Cooking Classes in Castro Dei Volsci, Italy, September/October 2025

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Castro dei Volsci

By Paul Bryers

The 12.42 pm Trentalia 12613 from Roma Termini to Castro-Pofi-Vallecorsa was a picturesque 1.5 hr journey, through the base of little hill towns backed by high mountains.

A short car journey then took me to Casa Gregoria where my friend Lisa DeMars and I shall be cooking up a storm over the next week.

Casa Gregorio is a culinary school located in a 17th-century palazzo offering hands-on cooking classes focused on authentic Ciociara cuisine, cultural tours, and accommodations in the countryside: https://www.facebook.com/share/161zJ1HWHq/?mibextid=wwXIfr

The school and accommodations are within the elegant and historic Palazzo Gregorio which is located in the charming hilltop town of Castro dei Volsci.

The town offers spectacular views of the surrounding valleys and mountains from its 300 meters (~1000 feet) elevation.

The culinary school is a beautifully regenerated piece of architecture.

The living areas….

….the Olive oil production basement…

…….the bedrooms; my accommodation – Juniper – offering views of the hills……

….and of course, the kitchen, where will learn to make traditional dishes, are all wonderful.

Before we had dinner, we took a wee swish up to the local Church – Santa Olivia. Simple by Catholic standards.

We then sauntered up to the top of the town.

You may recall the famous Italian actress, Sophie Loren. She starred in a 1960 movie called La Ciociara (Two Women) in which she played an Italian woman protecting her daughter from aggressive soldiers during WW2.

This highly evocative sculpture below is in memory of all those mothers that have tried to protect their daughters from sexual violence.

After our swish, we went back to our Casa for an early dinner. We met lovely folk and had a good time and good food, ending with a nice Grappa.

Day 9: Mejdi Tours Traveling the Silk and Spice Roads, Uzbekistan, May 2025

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Samarkand

By Paul Bryers

Me

As our tour sadly raps up, many thanks go to Olim our main guide. Excellent knowledge and story teller, very funny and all round nice guy. Here he is doing a wee dance.

All the local guides were great to….

Mejdi owner/reps were wonderful….

Local folks were all very friendly, especially of course the wee kids.

I got a wink later – lol

Fellow travelers intelligent, wise and very kind and supportive to an at times over excited Scotsman. Bless you all!

And so bye to Uzbekistan ….

NEXT UP ON MY TRAVEL BLOG:

September 24-October 8, 2025 – Quickie in Rome and a Week of Cooking Classes in Castro Dei Volsci, Italy

Day 8: Mejdi Tours Traveling the Silk and Spice Roads, Uzbekistan, May 2025

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Samarkand

By Paul Bryers

Our route led us over the mountains south of Samarkand to Shahrisabz, near the Afghan border.

Shahrisabz is home to a prominent Sunni Muslim mosque and outstanding ancient ruins.

Visited the ancient complex at Registan Square – Amir Temur Mausoleum and Palaces – very beautiful inside and out….climbed the minaret.

Day 7: Mejdi Tours Traveling the Silk and Spice Roads, Uzbekistan, May 2025

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Samarkand

by Paul Bryers

Travelled on fast train from Bukhara to Samarkand.

Graduations ongoing……

We walked around Samarkand and then ate dinner in a terrace overlooking some of the sights.

Incredibly beautiful place.

Day 6: Mejdi Tours Traveling the Silk and Spice Roads, Uzbekistan, May 2025

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Bukhara

by Paul Bryers

Old synagogue in Bukhara. Fiery leader. Only about 200 Jews left in Bukhara with most have diaspored to Israel, Europe and the US.

Visited fortress and palaces and very interesting Mosque and its Sufi Imam who told us about some differences between Sufi and other Muslims. Sufi are know for there intense silent chants which he demonstrated.

Day 5: Mejdi Tours Traveling the Silk and Spice Roads, Uzbekistan, May 2025

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Bukhara

by Paul Bryers

Various madrasas etc and folk and cats ….

Day 4: Mejdi Tours Traveling the Silk and Spice Roads, Uzbekistan, May 2025

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Bukhara

by Paul Bryers

We arrived in Bukhara after an early flight from Khiva on Uzbekistan Airways.


We toured the Old City’s artsy district and enjoyed the work of Uzbek/Iranian artists and photographers.

Then we went to the house of a gallery owner for Uzbek and Iranian come Persian entertainment and tea. The party got out of hand with very bad Persian dancing going on inc. me – good fun though.

Bukhara evening activity was a visit to a prominent Jewish household where we listened to stories and had an extravagant meal featuring green Plov followed by dancing and of course wodka.

Plov is Uzbekistan’s signature dish; it is a fragrant pilaf cooked with tender lamb, carrots, onions, and aromatic spices, often served at celebrations. I preferred to add fresh chilies or peppers. Uzbekistan food is not spicy hot as the people like the natural flavors to be obvious. This is a country where tomatoes taste like my father’s homegrown (and of course, now, sister Helen’s).

Day 3: Mejdi Tours Traveling the Silk and Spice Roads, Uzbekistan, May 2025

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Khiva

By Paul Bryers

Ichan Kala, within Khiva, is an incredible old city which has been a World Heritage site since 1990.

Four gates allow entry to the ancient city.

Within are numerous madras’s (religious schools) and minaretes. Some are now purely historical sites while others are functional. They vary from plain clay bring to high styalized, colored ceramic brick.

One minaret’s sponsor died before it was complete. It was meant to be 200 ft high but after he died it remained unfinished at about 70 ft height. It would have been the highest minuret in the World.

As a consulation, Khiva has the highest minaret in Uzbekistan.

The locals were in force….friendly folk..

We investigated various Quran, Lovely Rugs, Wooden Doors with Pomegrte and Bowls.

There was some hat fashion nonesense within our wee group. The lambs wool hats were worn by all men as late as the 1960s. The lambs involved in donating their wool varied from fetal to old mutton.

Day 2 (#2): Mejdi Tours Traveling the Silk and Spice Roads, Uzbekistan, May 2025

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Khiva

By Paul Bryers

Khiva is in an extraordinary location, both culturally and geographically, situated between two deserts with temperatures that can vary from cool to scorching.

The city walls rose up to greet us as we arrived. Camels and children lurked around.

Our accommodations were a converted madrasa – religious school – with its own minaret. The rooms were small and either limited amenities but a wonderful atmosphere.

Khiva is in Genie Country! – Alladin? Is that you over there?

We enjoyed rooftop dining and took in the spectacular views until the rain arrived, after which we took shelter and enjoyed Ukrainian vodka. It was a fantastic evening of refined drinking made possible by Craig, Sheryl, Marie, Aziz, Helen, and Jim.