Day 5 (#1): Rome and a Week of Cooking Classes in Castro Dei Volsci, Italy, September/October 2025

Municipality of Arpino

By Paul Bryers

Following an early breakfast on the veranda……

…we embarked on a visit to the Municipality of Arpino to explore the cultivation, harvesting, and production of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Cold Press.

Arpino is a charming small hilltop town. We had the opportunity to view it from the elevated Acropolis di Civitavecchia….

…And then from ground level….

The Acripolis is a historic site featuring a castle, walls constructed from massive boulders, intriguing arches, and breathtaking views.

The olive bushes on this particular farm are several hundred years old, necessitating the use of specialized tools for harvesting. The oil exhibited the characteristic just-cut-lawn aroma and a distinct peppery flavor.

Generally, oil of this quality can be stored in dark glass bottles at room temperature for approximately 20 months before it begins to degrade. I bought a tin for Glasgow – to go with my Deep Fried Mars Bars.

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Day 4: Rome and a Week of Cooking Classes in Castro Dei Volsci, Italy, September/October 2025

Castro dei Volsci

By Paul Bryers

The 12.42 pm Trentalia 12613 from Roma Termini to Castro-Pofi-Vallecorsa was a picturesque 1.5 hr journey, through the base of little hill towns backed by high mountains.

A short car journey then took me to Casa Gregoria where my friend Lisa DeMars and I shall be cooking up a storm over the next week.

Casa Gregorio is a culinary school located in a 17th-century palazzo offering hands-on cooking classes focused on authentic Ciociara cuisine, cultural tours, and accommodations in the countryside: https://www.facebook.com/share/161zJ1HWHq/?mibextid=wwXIfr

The school and accommodations are within the elegant and historic Palazzo Gregorio which is located in the charming hilltop town of Castro dei Volsci.

The town offers spectacular views of the surrounding valleys and mountains from its 300 meters (~1000 feet) elevation.

The culinary school is a beautifully regenerated piece of architecture.

The living areas….

….the Olive oil production basement…

…….the bedrooms; my accommodation – Juniper – offering views of the hills……

….and of course, the kitchen, where will learn to make traditional dishes, are all wonderful.

Before we had dinner, we took a wee swish up to the local Church – Santa Olivia. Simple by Catholic standards.

We then sauntered up to the top of the town.

You may recall the famous Italian actress, Sophie Loren. She starred in a 1960 movie called La Ciociara (Two Women) in which she played an Italian woman protecting her daughter from aggressive soldiers during WW2.

This highly evocative sculpture below is in memory of all those mothers that have tried to protect their daughters from sexual violence.

After our swish, we went back to our Casa for an early dinner. We met lovely folk and had a good time and good food, ending with a nice Grappa.

Beijing City – Chaoyang and Xicheng Districts

By Paul S Bryers, September 2016

Beijing is a vast city, with seemingly endless ring roads that radiate out from the old Imperial center. To make sense of where you are, it is best to understand that there are 4 central districts which contain most of the main sights:

– Dongcheng: Major sights such as Forbidden City, to the East of central lakes

– Chaoyang: Embassies, international bars and restaurants (area Sanlitun is hub for fashion), to the East of Dongcheng

-Xicheng: Central lakes and backpacker area, to the North of Dongcheng

– Haidian: University and Summer Palace, to the West of Dongcheng.

This post deals with Chaoyang and Xicheng Districts.

Chaoyang

Our well located hotel (Holiday Inn Express Dongzhimen) is in Chaoyang district, so we spent our first morning, a Sunday, walking to the local Dongyue Temple and Ritan Park.

Dongyue Temple is a Daoist (Taoist) temple in the Chaowai area of Chaoyang.  The temple is dedicated to the God of Mount Tai. Founded during the Yuan dynasty, it is the largest temple of the Zhengyi school of Daoism in northern China. The temple itself is very peaceful, being off the main tourist route, and contains some interesting architecture and antiquities. Our favorite was the Bronze Wonder Pony, pictured below, which promises cures for all illnesses in return for a prayer and a touch. My back is still stiff but there is time yet…..

Walking South a few blocks is Ritan Park. As this was a Sunday, everyone was out either practicing their tai chi (to a variety of musical genres – including country), vogueing, or showing off their birds’ songs. The park  includes The Temple of the Sun, a very picturesque small lake and a hill topped with a shady pagoda offering great views of the city.



Xicheng

We then took a subway to the 2008 Olympic Park (Lines 2 and 8). While the buildings were very impressive, the concrete landscaping was a bit barren. Still, worth the short journey.

A few subway stops back towards the city center are the Drum and Bell Towers. These were the Emperors clocks. Both towers offer great views of the city, after a short, steep climb.





A few subway stops and bus (#909) ride away is the sprawling 798 Arts District. Partially renovated factories house a vast collection of contemporary art. Definitely worthy of a visit. There are plenty places offering great food and coffee, like Flat White.

As a footnote, the subway and buses are easy to use, but if you do get stuck somewhere, taxis are easy to wave down and inexpensive – just make sure the meter is running.

Do you like donuts and hot chocolate?

By Paul Bryers, 2014

We visited Chocolateria San Gines in Madrid, Spain in August of 2014. The churros (like long donuts) and hot chocolate combination was amazing http://www.chocolateriasangines.com/Chocolateria_San_Gines/Welcome_to_San_Gines.html

You get a cup full of hot chocolate and a plate of delicious churros, costing only about $4. The churros were crunchy on the outside and kind-of creamy on the inside…we had a serving each, and then and to run 5 miles, but it was worth it.

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Afterwards, visit the Church of San Gines and the adjacent outdoor antique bookstall.