By Paul Bryers

• Morning Itinerary: Drive Chefchaouen – Volubilis
• Guide: Moulad ^

Upon departing Chefchaouen in the morning, we were treated to a lovely view of the old Jewish City.

As we continued driving towards Meknes/Fez, the soil transformed into rich, black earth due to previous volcanic eruptions. The landscape was dotted with wheat and barley fields, and hills covered with fruit trees and other vegetation – a stark contrast to what I had anticipated in Northern Morocco.

Volubilis:
Our first stop was Volubilis, a Berber-Roman city, where we explored the ruins in detail. Notably, this city marked the westernmost point of the Roman Empire, much like Hadrian’s Wall in Scotland denoted the empire’s northernmost boundary.

Upon entering the site, I was immediately drawn to a solitary tree, which I mentioned to Moulad resembled the one from the movie Gladiator, where Russell Crowe’s character reunites with his deceased wife and son. Interestingly, it was indeed the same tree!

Located in a fertile agricultural area, Volubilis originated as a Berber settlement in the 3rd century BC and expanded rapidly under Roman rule from the 1st century AD onwards. The city eventually spanned approximately 42 hectares (100 acres) with a 2.6 km (1.6 mi) circuit of walls.

I have included a site map for orientation purposes.

The city was designed along a main thoroughfare, the decumanus maximus. The city gates and porticos led to adjacent houses on both sides of the road, forming a near-perfect straight line from the Tangier Gate to the Caracalla arch.

During the 2nd century, this thoroughfare was lined with columns and arches for shade …..

….with major public buildings, including a basilica,…

and a triumphal arch….

There was also a small aqueduct whereby fresh water came from the mountainss into the city.

Volubilis is renowned for its impressive peristyle houses in the northeast area. The city’s prosperity, primarily derived from olive cultivation, led to the construction of numerous fine townhouses featuring large mosaic floors. Many of these floors have been meticulously restored.

Among these houses, the House of the Labours of Hercules stands out as a masterpiece. With an irregular layout, this house opens onto a secondary cardo, distinguishing it from other houses in the northeast district. The reception room boasts a stunning mosaic depicting various subjects, including the kidnapping of Ganymede, the twelve labours of Hercules, and the Four Seasons.

The Temple of Venus, complete with a sacrificial altar, left a lasting impression. I jokingly advised the cat on the altar to vacate the premises promptly.

Today, Volubilis is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, distinguished as “an exceptionally well-preserved example of a large Roman colonial town on the fringes of the Empire”.

By Paul Bryers

• Day Itinerary: Lazy, Ponderous Puppy Day in Chefchaouen

And on the 7th day, the Blogger rested.

Actually, I’ve been posting every day for 25 days straight. I know not many read the posts, but it keeps a good record for me to review in later life when I’m an old fart…

So, just providing a few photos of this lovely hill town and that’s it.

By Paul Bryers

• Day Itinerary: Drive from Casablanca – Rabat – Chefchaouen
• Accommodation: Iguana Azul, Chefchaouen
• Guide: Sofioan ^
• Driver: Said ^
• Meals: Kenzi Basma Hotel, Casablanca and Dar Naji, Rabat

This morning, we headed out to what will I think, from my research, be the most interesting part of the 14 days.

Governance of Morocco:
Before I discuss Rabat, the captial and official residence of the Monarchy, its worth mentioning its governance.

Morocco is a Constitutional Monarchy, like the UK. However, while there are democratic institutions and an elected parliament, the monarch maintains a commanding position and exercises considerable control over the state’s strategic direction and its people. The monarch holds significant power in areas like defense, security, diplomacy, and religious affairs, but also shares authority with the government, and recent reforms have been passed through a public referendum.

I’m sure King Charles III would like this type of power.

The current monarch is His Majesty King Mohammed VI, who ascended the throne in 1999 and belongs to the Alawi dynasty. He is very popular.

Rabat:
As with most capitals, Rabat is unlike other parts of the country – lots of green grass and trees, clean, slower pace, light rail, etc.

I met my guide, Sofioan, and we visited the most important sights of the city…

Hassan Tower and Mausoleum of Mohammed V –
Hassan Tower is the minaret of an incomplete mosque. It was commissioned by Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur, the third caliph of the Almohad Caliphate, near the end of the 12th century. The tower was intended to be the largest minaret in the world and the mosque, if completed, would have been the largest in the western Muslim world.

When al-Mansur died in 1199, construction on the mosque stopped as there was a war ongoing and funds were short. The minaret was left standing at a height of 44 meters (144 ft). The rest of the mosque was also left incomplete, with only the beginnings of several walls and 348 columns being constructed.

Unfortunately, due to being a favored suicide spot, you can no longer enter or climb the tower.

In the 1960s the site of mosque’s ruins was transformed to accommodate the construction of the Mausoleum of Mohammed V at its southeastern corner, alongside a modern mosque and another pavilion which occupy the rest of the southern side of the complex.

The modern mausoleum and mosque were designed by Vietnamese architect Cong Vo Toan and completed in 1971 – they could not find any Moroccan architects to deliver the envisaged design.

The Mausoleum is beautiful with the tomb being below the viewing gallery.

The tower and the site of the mosque were granted World Heritage Status in 2012.

From the Mausoleum you get an excellent view of the opera house, known as the Grand Theatre, which was designed by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid; yes, she who designed the Glasgow Transport Museum on the Clyde. The design is reminiscent of a cobra’s head. Sadly, the project was one of her last major works and represents her firm’s first project in Africa. 

You also get a great view of the tallest building in the Rabat area, the Mohammed VI Tower, a 250-meter skyscraper in the neighboring city of Salé. It is the tallest building in Morocco and the third-tallest in Africa, housing a mix of hotels, offices, and residences. 

Royal Palace and Gardens –
His Majesty King Mohammed VI, the country’s Monarch and leader, has the official Royal Palace here but he actually lives most of the time across the Oued Bouregreg in Sale, within a forest.

The official Royal Palace is really an administrative government complex – secuity was tight.

When Macron popped in earlier today for Green tea with Mint he was received at the official Royal Palace.

Kasbah des Oudaias –
The medina with its towering walls, winding streets, beautiful tarnished wooden doors and terraces overlooking the Bouregreg River was lovely.

Sofioan pointed out to knockers on doors – one alerts to a family member arriving and the other a more formal guest. In the case of the latter, the women of the house would veil up before opening the door.

The cemetery next to the sea was very old.

The gardens within the Kasbah were lovely with a Moorish flavor.

Chefchaouen:
After the 4 hrs drive through the Riff Mountains from Rabat, we finally got to Chefchaouen, the Blue City (an old Jewish Town), which was a welcome sight for both Said and I. It looks lovely and I have the whole day to explore tomorrow as we stay here tomorrow night as well.

Guide:

Sofioan ^ was a nice guy, very charismatic and knowledgeable. We had coffee and wandered round the sites. We talked a bit about ME/African politics and current areas of conflit and I got an interesting perspective.

Driver:

I really would not recommend driving here. Its amost as bad as Sicily or Florida when the Old Canadians are snow-birding. Said ^ did a wonderful job driving the narrow, winding roads. He gets tomorrow off as it’s Friday.

Accommodation:
Iguana Azul was a good walk up the narrow streets to a quiet part of town.

I have a nice wee room and a good bathroom.

The common areas are small but sweet.

There is a 3rd floor for breakfast and a rooftop area with great views over the city.

Meals:

Breakfast at Kenzi Basma Hotel, Casablanca Hotel was poor; Lunch at Dar Naji, Rabat – Goat Tajine – was really good and far too much, as usual.

^ Supplied via Luxury Tours Morocco

Paul Bryers

• Day Itinerary: Drive from El Jadida to Casablanca
• Accommodation: Kenzi Basma Hotel, Casablanca
• Driver/Guide: Said
• Meals: Riad Soleil d’Orient, El Jadida and Kenzi Basma Hotel, Casablanca

Drive El Jadida to Casablanca:
Our drive from El Jadida to Casablanca was quite eventful, as we encountered a sandstorm that worsened as we approached our destination. Despite the clouds of sand and dust, the blue sky was still visible. Unfortunately, my contact lenses were not comfortable in these conditions.

Casablanca was not what I had expected. The last 20 miles of our approach along the coast seemed to be a vast construction site for new 3-4 story identical apartments, rivaling even Fort Lauderdale in terms of growth.

Guide/Driver: Said was, as usual, a very careful driver keeping his eyes ahead. He was even patient with a wee cat as it slowly crossed the road.

Hassan II Mosque:
However, my first stop in Casablanca was a very pleasant surprise – the magnificent Hassan II Mosque.

It was truly astounding. I was lucky to gain entry – in fact I was the last person in before they stopped entry for imminent prayers, so I had the place largely to myself.

As the second largest functioning mosque in Africa and the 14th largest in the world, it is an impressive structure.

The mosque is situated on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, allowing worshippers to pray over the sea.

Completed in 1993, the mosque was designed by Michel Pinseau under the guidance of King Hassan II and built by skilled Moroccan artisans from across the kingdom.

The mosque can accommodate a maximum of 105,000 worshippers, with 25,000 inside the mosque hall and another 80,000 on the outside grounds.

Its minaret, standing at 210 meters (689 ft), is the world’s second tallest. The minaret is topped by a laser that directs its light towards Mecca. Hopefully, I will have the opportunity to see this tonight, as my bedroom window faces the minaret.

The outer walls of the mosque are made of intricately crafted marble, and the roof is retractable.

Many ornate doors lead into the prayer hall. They seem to be made of titanium.

Inside, the Mosque is breathtaking.

Notable architectural features include the striking columns, horseshoe arches, and intricate muqarnas adorning the ceilings. The dome, arches, and walls create a grand ambiance within the mosque. The state-of-the-art sound system is discreetly concealed.

The basement houses an ablution room and a vast public hammam, with its own entrance.

Accommodation:
The Kenzi Basma Hotel is modern and looks onto the Mosque. It was quite nice to be in a modern hotel although I do like the Riads.

My room was nice and big and light and, as I mentioned, had a great view of the Mosque.

^ Supplied via Luxury Tours Morocco.

By Paul Bryers

• Day Itinerary: Drive from Essaouira – Safi – Qualidia – El Jadida
• Accommodation: Riad Soleil d’Orient, El Jadida
• Driver/Guide: Said^
• Meals: Crystal Palace Cafe, Qualidia; Riad Soleil d’Orient, El Jardida

Drive to El Jadida:

Following an early breakfast at the Riad (good), which once again offered stunning morning ocean views including fishermen on the rocks,……

…..Said and I headed North up the mostly coast road to El Jadida.

It was a rural country road with some potholes – not as bad as Glasgow though. Beautiful views out to the Ocean and small coastal villages that cater to locals and tourists.

The coastal areas were surprisingly green.

Wind turbines were prevalent in the hills. There was talk of Morocco providing electricity to the UK, which seems to have little overall electric power strategy, but I’m not aware of the current status.

We passed a selection of mammals – camels, goats, cows, sheep and of course dogs (not Dylan), cats and people.

First stop for coffee and a restroom break was Safi. It’s a big industrial town (phosphate production*) and on the Ocean – huge amount of building going on – new roads and industrial facilities. Little to offer a tourist as far as I can tell but always good to see the grittier side of a country. Typically, I tend to go to these places and am the only tourist 😃. There is a castle but it’s crumbling into the sea…Had a coffee beside a car park, enjoyed the goings on and witnessed a big verbal spar between the cafe guy and a local.

• Morocco holds about 75% of the world’s phosphate reserves and is a leading global producer, using its resources primarily for fertilizer production and increasingly for other products like batteries.

Stopped for lunch at Qualidia. This is a small town with some large resorts at the beach and some cheap hotels in the main town.

I seemingly could not eat at the resorts so had to make do with the town. I chose the Crystal Palace Cafe. No English spoken, so I dragged out my school French and asked for the WC but got taken to a bedroom – so either they didn’t want me in the cafe WC or, as my French Teacher at Inverness Royal Academy, General Grant, said, my French is appalling. I suspect the latter.

This is the Oyster Capital of Morocco but I got away with having them a couple of nights ago and I don’t want to push my luck. So, Pizza Fruit De Mar it was. It was delicious.

If you do this leg of the trip and are not interested in the more gritty side of Morocco, I would suggest that you go straight from Essaouira to El Jadida with just restroom breaks.

Driver/Guide:

Said did a great job once again – especially avoiding the larger pot holes.

Accommodation:

The Riad Soleil d’Orient is in the Medina. It’s very nice and quiet inside the Riad. Folks running it are lovely.

Room is good, overlooking the inner courtyard – you can’t always have the Atlantic Ocean crashing outside your bedroom window.

After 6 hrs in the car I decided to have dinner in the Riad. Interesting move ….

I elected for the couscous and I think I got one for at least two! So big.

It was delicious though..

I also meant to order a large glass of red but ordered a 75 ml bottle instead.

Never mind – it was lovely….

I’m definitely loosing it as I approach 60 years old.

Ok, so oft to bed – It’s Casablanca for 1 night tomorrow before we swing East…

It’s nice to have the call to prayer as you slip between the covers…..mebbies tomorrow…although around 5 am may be a tad early..

^ Supplied via Luxury Tours Morocco

By Paul Bryers

• Morning and Afternoon Itinerary: Moroccan Cooking Class
• Meals: Cooking Class at L’atelier Cafe Boutique

Following a late breakfast at the Riad, which offered stunning morning ocean views…..

…..I strolled through the quiet alleys and encountered a friendly wee hairy dog called Dylan before meeting Said.

Said then drove me to L’Atelier Cafe Boutique for my Moroccan cooking class.

The kitchen was impeccably organized, reminiscent of my recent residential cooking classes with Lisa Warren DeMars at Casa Gregoria in Italy.

The class consisted of a diverse group of fellow apprentice chefs from Denmark, Germany, Belgium, and France.

We prepared a starter of finely chopped courgette with garlic and spices and a traditional Tajine dish featuring sea bream, carrot, potato, tomato, green pepper, pickled and preserved lemon, and olives, all infused with a chermoula marinade.

The chermoula marinade was composed of common ingredients, including garlic, cumin, coriander, oil, lemon juice, and salt, supplemented with ground chili peppers, black pepper, salt, saffron, and other spices and herbs.

We began by slowly cooking the finely chopped courgette and preparing the marinade and Tajine ingredients.

Once the courgette was cooked to el dente, ….

….we set it aside and assembled the Tajine ingredients in the Tajine.

We then placed our names in Arabic in the lid cavity of the Tajine allowed the Tajine to cook for approximately 50 minutes …..

…..while we visited the fish market to explore the aromatic spices provided by the school’s supplier, Mr. Mohammed Seddiki.

This experience was truly enriching, as we had the opportunity to smell and sample an array of exquisite spices and even apply black amber and musk to our skin. I smelt delicious.

A particular highlight was the Nigella seeds, which were rubbed together in a cloth and inhaled deeply through each nostril, providing a potent and invigorating sensation. Historically, these seeds have been used to alleviate respiratory issues, including runny noses and head colds. They can also be fried and used as a fragrant lint or crushed and soaked in vinegar to remedy chronic headaches.

Upon our return to the school, we had the pleasure of savoring our culinary creations. The meal was truly delicious, and I extend my commendations to the school and my fellow chefs for a truly enjoyable experience.

Presently, I am indulging in a well-deserved siesta, feeling thoroughly satiated.

By Paul Bryers

• Afternoon and Evening Itinerary: Wee Exploration of Essaouira medina
• Accommodation: Riad Mimouna
• Meals: Cafe Verd and Il Mare

Wee walk in Medina:

Following check-in at my Riad, I embarked on a brief exploration of the medina, situated beside the tall city wall with the Atlantic Ocean pounding behind.

I found this medina more appealing than that of Marrakesh, owing to its less noisy and intense atmosphere. The architecture and quaint shops were particularly noteworthy.

Lunch consisted of crepes at Cafe Verd, located near the beach. Very good.

And another wee walk around:

After a brief siesta, I went for a wee walk along the top of the city wall and ramparts as the sun began to slip down. Fantastic sea views.

Just before sunset, I went to Il Mare, situated beside the city wall and Ocean, which provided a great dining place and view of the sunset over the Ocean.

I was lucky enough to sit beside a woman from Cork, Ireland and her daughter and we had a great chat. A lot better than dining alone.

The food was great – fresh oysters followed by fried calamari.

Accommodation:
Riad Mimouna was accessible via a man-powered cart ride (for my luggage) from my carriage stop, navigating through the old medina alleyways and shops. The ambiance was preferable to that of Marrakech.

The Riad itself was beautiful, boasting serene common areas.

My room was lovely, featuring open windows onto a hallway above the internal courtyard, which in turn had windows open to the sea below. The views of the sea and beach were stunning, complemented by the beautiful fresh sea air and the soothing sound of waves; my favorite bedroom sounds.

The restaurant and bar on the rooftop had the same great views and I enjoyed my welcome mint tea from that location.

By Paul Bryers

• Morning Itinerary: Drive ~ 3 hrs Marrakesh to Essouria
• Guide/Driver: Said^

My carriage – no not the horse drawn carriage, the SUV…awaited me this morning, my driver, Said, at the wheel for our journey to Essauoria.

Economy:
The wee towns we drove through reminded me that while Morocco is a middle-income country with a diverse, market-oriented economy, living standards are lower by international standards. People work very hard to make a living.

My understanding is that Morocco has made progress in reducing poverty and improving basic services, but multidimensional poverty (considering factors like education, employment, health, and housing) remains an issue, particularly in rural areas.

I believe that travel is a political act. Your behaviour reflects your country, Scotland in my case.
You can read as many books as you like but the only way to get to understand a country, even a little bit, is to visit or better live there.

For example, Arabic countries are by far the most friendly and family and community orrientated anywhere I have travelled.

Travel is also an opportunity for economic impact. Buying truly local is not always as easy as it seems. In Morocco, using a Morocco- based travel company helps, as does staying and eating at owner run Riads and Restaurants. Yes, I could get the public buses but frankly I’m not doing that alone.

Public Transport:
As in many African countries public transport has failed to keep up with it’s growth, with seemingly hours-long traffic jams a common feature of many metropolises.

This has got to do largely with the colonial planning systems that have been adopted and inherited on the Continent. Urban areas were segregated and hence fragmented and so formal transport provision was largely intended for the formal city or … the ‘white area’.”

Poor planning since then has meant that people moving to cities have largely not been catered for.

For tourists exploring Morocco, the choices are mainly public or private buses or private car with driver.

I opted for the latter as I’m getting lazy, for the additional comfort, for some company, and that I want to cover a lot of ground 2000 kms/1300 miles) in 14 days.

Journey Marrakesh to Essauoria:
Lecture over 😃 … back to the journey to Essaouria.

Our drive to Essauoria took as through Marrakesh and then on to country roads sided by many beautiful dry stone dykes/walls (reminding me of Scotland), sand and stones and the occasional orchard of Calabash Trees.

Document checks were infrequent as I’m white and look reasonably respectable 😃 – lot of speed traps.

Coffee/WC stop was important and we were joined by a rally. Wonder if they are required to obey the speed limits? Probably not as they passed us at some speed…

We finally came to the crest of a hill and below lay Essaouria and the glittering Atlantic Ocean.

Guide/Driver:
Said^ is from Sahara and, like me, prefers the countryside to cities.

He kept me safe obeying the many speed restrictions – important even in the countryside and wee towns where there was, from my perspective, some craziness from drivers and peds, as well as dogs and goats.

^ Supplied by Luxury Tours Morocco

By Paul Bryers

• Afternoon’s Itinerary: Medina Sights, Marrakech
• Guide: Maryam^
• Driver: Mr Said^
• Meals: L’Mida

Guided Walk:
Following a second breakfast at my hotel, I met my guide Maryam and we embarked on a comprehensive exploration of Marrakesh, commencing with a guided tour of the Medina’s key attractions.

We navigated, with purpose, through the vibrant souks’ alleyways near Jemaa el-Fnna Square.

These were filled with noisy sellers, even more noisy motorbikes and very exotic scents and tastes – cumin, cardamom, amber, jasmine….

I saw a nice ass and we found some quiet alleys too..

Bahia Palace:
I discovered the opulent beauty of the Bahia Palace as Maryam took me through its enchanting halls and intricately designed gardens. I marveled at the stunning Moorish architecture adorned with vibrant tiles, delicate carvings, and ornate ceilings.

Dar el Bacha:
This is a grand residence built in 1910 and was once the home of Thami El Glaoui, who was appointed as the Pasha of Marrakech by Sultan Moulay Youssef in 1912. In 2017, the building was renovated by the NFM and transformed into a museum that serves as a prime example of traditional Moroccan architecture.

This is evident from the fountains, the traditional salons, and the courtyard filled with pomegranate and orange trees.

The residence also contained a hammam, or Turkish bath, which is a traditional public bathing ritual that involves steam, heat, and cleansing rituals. The term comes from Arabic and means “heat” or “warmth”. 

The procedure typically involves moving through rooms of different temperatures to open skin pores, use black soap, and rinse off before ending the session in a cold room.

Heat comes from underfloor fires which also often heat tajine kitchens.

In Morocco, Hammam can be a weekly social and spiritual practice

There are also exhibits of typical household items.

Nowadays, it is host to many cultural exhibitions. For example, handwoven rugs from different regions of Morocco made by women to supplement the family income.

Madrassa Ben Youssef:
Ben Youssef Madrassa is a medieval Islamic school and a masterpiece of Moroccan architecture.

We admired its intricate zellij tiling, delicate stucco plasterwork, and beautifully carved cedar wood.

The small Mosque for students was intricately carved.

You can see why this school is one of Marrakech’s most ornate historic sites.

Guide/Driver:
Maryam did an excellent job providing the background to the souks and historic sites. She also helped me buy some organic healing potions from a natural pharmacist, as well as booking me a lunch at L’Mida Restaurant.

Mr Said kept us safe and stayed calm despite the horrific traffic and some aggressive verbiage being hurled his way.

Meals:
Breakfast: At Riad. It was OK.

Lunch: At L’Mida – On the Rooftop, overlooking the Medina. Excellent. I had:

• L’Mida Mocktail (Cucumber, Lime, Cilantro, liquidized with ice)
• Red Hummus (Calamari rad hangout, Red Pepper, Tahini, Lemon juice)
• Fish Tajine (Red Snapper with Charmoula, Potatoes, Eggplant, Zucchini, Cherry Tomatoes.

Everything was really tasty, especially the mocktail and the calamari, and the waiters were lovely and attentive to the old dog (me).

^ Supplied by Luxury Tours Morocco

By Paul Bryers

* Morning’s Itinerary: Sunrise Hot Air Balloon, Marrakech

* Accommodation: Riad Palais des Princesses & SPA

Hot Air Balloon:

I was picked up by Ciel d’Afrique at just after 6 am and we arrived at the take off site at about 6.45 am. 

After a croissant and coffee breakfast in Berber tents and a short safety briefing, the balloons were further inflated,……

…we took to the air at about 7.30 am …

……..to view the sunrise over the Atlas Mountains around 7.45 am. 

We continued to flow West with the wind, creating a beautiful armada of colors against the blue Moroccan sky.

EasyJet flew buy an orange balloon – Note: EJ – YOU DO NOT have my permission to use this photo unless you pay me $$$$…

Our (possibly) SUV and balloon/basket trailer following us at speed to be there for our landing…

After landing around 8.30 am,….

….and observing some wildlife,…..

…there was an ample breakfast and then we drove back to Marrakech, arriving about 10.15 am.

Wonderful experience – prices seemed to vary but around US$300 pp.

Accommodation:

The Riad Palais des Princesses was really beautiful. About 5 mins walk from the very noisy and busy Jemma el-Fna Square, it was very quiet. 

The common areas were tastefully decorated and there was a heated (!), small indoor pool. 

My bedroom was on the top floor and looked down into the courtyard.The bedroom itself was lovely with plenty of room and a wee sitting area.