Day 3: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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Day 3: Sisimiut, Greenland

From Paul Bryers, August 19, 2025

What a spectacular location. The houses remind me of the West Coast of Scotland; Tobermory, Tarbert, Barra….

Quite incredible…..esp. liked Dog Town where all the town dogs and their pups stay as they are worker dogs and not pets..

The town is impressive. While steeped in history it is very progressive. Schools for neurodivergent and Down’s, etc…no one left behind.

Our hike up the mountain was fun but the wee insects were as bad as midges. Still, we got great views ….

Day 2: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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Day 2: Overnight Cruising from Nuuk to Evighedfjord

From Paul Bryers, August 18, 2025

During the night, our cruise from Nuuk to Evighedfjord encountered rough seas in the Labrador Sea. However, upon entering the fjord in the morning, the sea became significantly calmer, although mist and light rain persisted.

The fjord is characterized by picturesque steep mountains and stunning tidewater glaciers. Notably, the Evighedfjord Glacier is situated at the far end of the fjord, featuring two distinct prongs, one of which has carved a path through the center of a 1500-meter mountain.

Google Maps of Fjord
Google Maps: The Evighedfjord Glacier

My group, Bearded Seals, embarked on a Zodiac excursion to the face of the glacier, where we observed a striking display of blue hues, comprising both transparent and compacted blue ice. The glacier face stands approximately 50 meters high and was actively calving, producing a loud roar and splash that were audible and visible from a distance of 500 meters.

Interestingly, our Zodiac guide was Dougie Wainwright, son of Robert Wainwright, a renowned rugby union footballer who was capped 37 times for Scotland and once for the British and Irish Lions. Coincidentally, Rob and his family reside on the Isle of Coll, a location that holds great personal significance for me.

Dougie Wainwright

Day 1: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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Day 1: Flight from Reykjavik, Iceland to Nuuk, Greenland

From Paul Bryers; August 17, 2025

Our entry to airspace above Greenland was very impressive. We quickly descended from 33,000 ft to below mountain ranges; mountains still smattered by snow and towering about the fjords. The airport and surrounds were barbaric, reminding me of living in a Scottish quarry. We are now happily enclosed within the bosom of MV Fridtjof Nansen.

PS Bryers, August 17, 2025
PS Bryers, August 17, 2025
PS Bryers, August 17, 2025
PS Bryers, August 17, 2025

Day 1: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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Day 1: Reykjavik, Iceland

From Paul Bryers; August 17, 2025

Today, we embark on an expedition to Southeast Greenland and attempt to navigate a sea passage through the ice flows of the Northwest Passage (NWP), a journey scheduled to take 26 days.

The NWP is a maritime route connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans via the Arctic Ocean, adjacent to North America’s northern coast, utilizing Canadian Arctic Archipelago waterways. Essentially, we will sail from Nuuk, Greenland, to Nome, Alaska.

Sourced from internet; unknown author.

This endeavor is termed an “attempt” because, although Arctic sea ice recedes sufficiently during late July and August to enable strengthened vessels to pass, the remaining ice continues to move and accumulate, posing a risk of ships becoming stuck and damaged.

Our vessel, the MV Fridtjof Nansen, is a hybrid-powered expedition ship operated by HX Hurtigruten, featuring reinforced hulls designed to withstand impacts from ice flows and small icebergs. While capable of icebreaking, the F Nansen is not designed to break through thick, multi-year ice found in the Arctic.

Courtesy of HX Hurtigruten

I have complete confidence in HX and their new vessels, having sailed with them to Antarctica twice, and while they are bold in their expeditions, they prioritize safety.

Antarctic and Falklands Cruise – Day 7 – Whale Watching

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Paul S. Bryers, January 2, 2020

We saw loads of large icebergs and were lucky enough to see ten’s of Humpback whales feeding over a period of several hours.

Antarctic and Falklands – Day 6 – Danco Island (2)

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Paul S. Bryers, January 1, 2020

Our zodiac landing was far easier today. However, the walk up/down the snow covered hill to see the Gentoo Penguins was quite challenging – worth it though for the magnificent views!

And at last we saw a Chinstrap Penguin.

We did our landing at 1.30 pm, it’s now 7.49 pm and there’s still folks on the hill.

What a way to spend the first day of 2020!

Antarctic and Falklands – Day 6 – Danco Island (1)

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Paul S. Bryers, January 1, 2020

We arrived at Danco Island about 12.30 pm after cruising around the area enjoying the magnificent scenery and seeing blows and tails of quite a few whales.

See 2nd posting on Dante Island for more photos.

Antarctic and Falklands Cruise – Day 5 – Trinity Island

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Paul S Bryers, December 31, 2019

Sailed overnight from Greenwich Island to D’Hainaut Island, located within Mikkelsen Harbour, Trinity Island. D’Hainaut was a whaling station many years ago. The surrounding scenery was amazing with mountains, glaciers and some bergs.

The one below was huge!

The zodiac trip to the island was interesting in that Gentoo Penguins were diving in/out of the water all over the place.

It was a more challenging landing than yesterday as zodiac had to do a rock dock (basically, you ram the zodiac up on the rock face and hold it there with the engine full on until people get off/on, and then you have to walk over a combo of Gentoo shit and ice/snow.

Once landed, Gentoo Penguins were everywhere.

The island also has a lot of whale bones and a fairly intact old whaling boat.

We saw the blows from a few live whales today – naturalist said Humpbacks – but no sightings of tails or breaches, as yet. BREAKING NEWS – Two Humpbacks just breached….no photo though…

Antarctic and Falklands Cruise – Day 4 – Drakes Passage and Yankee Harbor, Greenwich Island

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Paul S. Bryers, December 30, 2019

We completed our crossing of Drakes Passage early this morning after an uneventful night. Then there were the first sightings of icebergs in the distance and at last the South Shetland Islands, Antartica!

And our first spotting of a penguin (gentoo) diving in and out of the water. Hard to get a photo as they move so fast.

Our zodiac landing today was Yankee Harbor, Greenwich Island to see the Gentoo Penguin colonies and elephant seals. Cute penguins, grumpy seals!

Antarctic and Falklands Cruise – Day 3 – Drakes Passage

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Paul S Bryers, December 29, 2016

Although we are ahead of the storm, the Captain says we are still getting some 30 foot waves which are making us shake, rattle and roll (a bit). I don’t think it’s bad at all.

Chris was up birdwatching before me but then Dramamine was required and a consequent nap…

Plenty of Giant Southern Petrels around…

and the occasional Great Skua….

Apparently an Albatross was spotted but I didn’t get a photo – yet.