This morning, accompanied by our knowledgeable guide Eyad, we explored the ancient city of Jerash.
Often referred to as a Rome away from Rome, Jerash is a remarkably well-preserved large-scale Roman provincial city, offering a unique glimpse into Graeco-Roman and Eastern cultures.
Notable architectural features include:
Hadrian’s Gate – named after the same Roman Emperor who commissioned Hadrian’s Wall in Scotland to mark the northern boundary of the Roman Empire.
A vast circus where chariot racing took place
Pillar-lined streets and sidewalks in the shape of a Cross
Cardo Maximus, a large oval plaza at the intersection of these roads
Temple of Zeus
Temple of Artemis
North and South Theaters
Damascus Gate
During our visit to one of the theaters, we encountered men dressed in traditional Jordanian attire playing bagpipes – specifically, Amazing Grace. Interestingly, bagpipe music is a popular genre in Jordan, a legacy of the Scottish troops stationed there.
The UK and Jordan enjoy a close relationship, partly due to the Hashemites, the royal family and leaders of Jordan, who received British support to overthrow Ottoman rule in the country during World War I and the Arab Revolt.
Beyond its archaeological significance, Jerash also hosts the Jerash Festival for Culture and Arts, bringing modern life and performances to the ancient stages.
Following a lavish and excellent lunch at a Lebanese restaurant, we returned to Amman to explore the Old City.
Amman’s old city, is the historic core of the capital, known for its ancient ruins, bustling souks, and cultural sites.
Key attractions include the Amman Citadel, perched on a hilltop, which offers panoramic views and archaeological remains from various eras, and the Roman Amphitheater – sight of many contemporary concerts.
Next, we ventured into the heart of old Amman to visit the market, where I was captivated by the vibrant colors of the fruit and vegetables.
We had a quick look at the local Mosque.
We made a brief stop to sample some traditional Jordanian sweets.
I took a secret photo of a traffic cop without getting arrested….
We met our AMA guide for the next four days, an unusually tall Jordanian who attributes his height to his mother, a Bedouin.
Today has been a leisurely day, which is welcome, as tomorrow will mark the beginning of a busy schedule with AMA that will last until October 24.
I have been chatting with St Regis staff, and they have shared that the Jordan tourism sector has been severely impacted by the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.
Fortunately, today’s news suggests that the worst of the conflict may be over.
Prior to the war, tourism accounted for approximately 15% of Jordan’s GDP.
However, due to the conflict, the number of US and European tourists has declined by about 65%, and hotels are currently only about 30% full.
While the situation in Gaza has clearly been far, far, far worse than here, it is still disheartening to see the Jordanian tourist industry so adversely affected.
Approximately 30 hotels have closed, resulting in the loss of thousands of jobs.
Reflecting this downturn, there are only seven AMA travelers participating in this Add-on Jordan Land Tour.
We will join the bulk of the group, consisting of, I guess, around 100 individuals, in Cairo on October 13.
For dinner, I visited the St Regis’ Tamara Restaurant, which serves authentic Middle Eastern cuisine.
My server was extremely helpful in assisting me with my menu selections, and I simply requested that he choose traditional Jordanian dishes.
My pre-dinner cocktail consisted of a Raki Julep, comprising Raki, Triple sec, Lemon Juice, Cranberry Juice, and Mint.
For dinner, I was served Hummus Beiruti, consisting of chickpeas puree, chopped parsley, mint, pickles, and olive oil.
This was followed by Tabbouleh, a dish made from chopped parsley, vegetables, bulgur, molasses, lemon, and olive oil.
The main course was Lamb Mansaf, featuring local lamb, Jameed yogurt, turmeric rice, nuts, and parsley.
This meal was paired with a Jordan River Shiraz, characterized by earthy, beet-like flavors and hints of melon.
Piggy goes wild in Amman, Jordan
Despite feeling satiated, the staff continued to present additional dishes, including spicy olives and roasted nuts.