Expedition

Day 15: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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By Paul Bryers, August 31, 2025

  • Still Sheltering in Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, Arctic Canada.

We remain sheltered in Cambridge Bay as the storm outside appears to have been severe, but our skilled Captain maintained the vessel’s stability using side thrusters.

According to secret reports which were leaked to me, two Kelpies on vacation from Scotland attempted to lure the Captain and crew into the turbulent Ocean during the night but were unsuccessful
https://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/The-Kelpie/

This morning, Zodiac landings commenced as scheduled, with only a few white horses visible.

Near the shoreline, metal sculptures of a Musk Ox and Wolves were observed.

Unfortunately, I was unable to participate in the planned ATV excursion into the tundra. Despite the challenges HX faces in organizing excursions, there is clearly room for improvement. In defense of HX, they are providing a full refund.

Still my little yellow ATV and I had a few moments together which we will cherish forever.

Fortunately, the weather has cleared significantly.

Day 14 (#2): North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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By Paul Bryers, August 30, 2025

  • Sheltering in Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, Arctic Canada

We made it safely into Cambridge Bay. I see what the Captain meant about a tricky port to navigate – he was literally weaving our 21,761 tonne ship between the guidance bouys. Way to go Captain Aron Håpoldøy!

However, so far, the storm has been moderate and we are pretty much sheltered in the bay – maybe it will become more severe later. I hope so….

Because of the wind and waves, we were not allowed to go ashore in the Zodiacs. I got my nails done instead – my first manicure!

Before and after…..

Before

After!

In the meantime here is a wee poem…

Cambridge Bay Storm

The wind whispers promise on the Arctic shore, while white horses rise from the blue bay floor.

Harbor boats lie moored and bob,
Water swallows land, yet resilience guides us through life’s ebbs and flows.

And in the wind, a quiet strength prevails, a timeless hymn of northern days that never fail.

Rooted, yet free in nature’s grasp, a storm-bound traveler on icebound land, transformed.

Day 14 (#1): North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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By Paul Bryers, August 30, 2025

  • Storm!! Cruising past Jenny Lind Island towards Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, Arctic Canada

We were meant to stop and do landings/hike at Jenny Lind Island, named for the Swedish born opera singer, Jenny Lind. You may recall that the character Jenny Lind featured in the movie The Greatest Showman, where she sang the beautiful song “Never Enough” (https://youtu.be/kUkRoIMyqFo?si=YUHFZeT9h4ssaK53)

However, due to approaching severe weather (Force 10 gale) we are now racing straight for the shelter of Cambridge Bay.

Winds:

– 48–55 knots
– 55–63 mph
– 89–102 km/h
– 24.5–28.4 m/s

Waves:

– 29–41 ft

– 9–12.5 m

The problem with Cambridge Bay is the entry is very narrow and it’s difficult to get in esp. in a storm. So we have a small window to gain entry to the safety of the port.

How exciting! Hopefully a more interesting post for you guys later today.

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Day 13: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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By Paul Bryers, August 29, 2025

  • Gjøa Haven, Nunavut, Arctic Canada.

Upon arrival by zodiac, we registered and met some of the friendly locals.

Gjøa Haven, also known as Uqsuqtuuq in Inuktitut, translates to “place of plenty blubber,” referring to the abundance of sea mammals in the area. Alternatively, it could also refer to some of us guests on MV Fridjtof Nansen who have been indulging in the Arctic cuisine. One guest even remarked that my t-shirts were too tight, a comment that was both shockingly rude and potentially true.

Gjoa Haven is renowned for its excellent dog sledding opportunities and diverse wildlife, including caribou, muskox, polar bear, geese, swans, falcons, and ducks. During our visit, we spotted some dogs. Crickets…

Historically, the town’s population has grown significantly, from 110 residents in 1961 to 1,349 in 2021, according to the census, as many Inuit have relocated from traditional camps to access healthcare and educational facilities.

The town comprises numerous cabins, each with its unique appearance.

The Naeselik Heritage Centre showcases various artifacts from the Inuit past, although it was extremely hot inside during our visit.

The community is served by the Gjoa Haven Airport and an annual supply sealift; this ship was in during our visit.

The area is home to CAM-CB, a North Warning System site for incoming missiles. Comforting.

Day 12 (#3): North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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By Paul Bryers, August 28, 2025

When the Ice Weeps

The Arctic weeps in silence, its frozen crown undone.

White sheets that held the ages melt beneath the sun.

A polar bear drifts, hollow-eyed, on a raft too small to save, while shadows of the walrus fall into a rising grave.

Courtesy LSA

The sea drinks what is vanishing, blue swallowing the white, and children yet unborn will ask why we did not fight.

The North once sang of stillness,
of cold eternal night – now it cries with breaking voices, slipping out of sight.

And well they might. In shame we hang our heads.

There is no second chance, there is only desolation.

Day 12 (#2): North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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By Paul Bryers, August 28, 2025

  • Sunset, Nunavut, Arctic Canada

Another lovely sunset…

Day 12 (#1): North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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By Paul Bryers, August 28, 2025

  • Pasley Bay, Nunavut, Arctic Canada

Today’s excursion was characterized by inclement weather, with persistent rain and mist. Despite these conditions, our scheduled landing at Pasley Bay proceeded as planned, although the long hike was cancelled due to safety concerns, specifically limited visibility for armed guards to spot approaching bears.

The waters exhibited a striking powder turquoise hue.

Leaving HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen on Zodiac

Zodiacs on beach

The shoreline comprised multiple raised beaches of flint, fractured by the frozen seas. The island was very bleak and sad; ghosts lingered in the thick mist.

Raised beach of flint

Armed Polar Bear Guard (PBG)

Author standing in desolation

HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen

The island had human settlement dating back thousands of years, with only stone ruins remaining today.

Settlement remains
Settlement remains
Potential grave?

The island’s stones and rocks were adorned with vibrant, mustard-yellow “sunburst” lichens, as well as white and black varieties, creating a spectacular visual display.

Sunburst lichen

The terrain featured a diverse array of ground plants in various hues.

The return zodiac trip started without a visual of the ship, but then it appeared and we all lived another day in the Northwest Passage!

Day 2: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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Day 2: Overnight Cruising from Nuuk to Evighedfjord

From Paul Bryers, August 18, 2025

During the night, our cruise from Nuuk to Evighedfjord encountered rough seas in the Labrador Sea. However, upon entering the fjord in the morning, the sea became significantly calmer, although mist and light rain persisted.

The fjord is characterized by picturesque steep mountains and stunning tidewater glaciers. Notably, the Evighedfjord Glacier is situated at the far end of the fjord, featuring two distinct prongs, one of which has carved a path through the center of a 1500-meter mountain.

Google Maps of Fjord
Google Maps: The Evighedfjord Glacier

My group, Bearded Seals, embarked on a Zodiac excursion to the face of the glacier, where we observed a striking display of blue hues, comprising both transparent and compacted blue ice. The glacier face stands approximately 50 meters high and was actively calving, producing a loud roar and splash that were audible and visible from a distance of 500 meters.

Interestingly, our Zodiac guide was Dougie Wainwright, son of Robert Wainwright, a renowned rugby union footballer who was capped 37 times for Scotland and once for the British and Irish Lions. Coincidentally, Rob and his family reside on the Isle of Coll, a location that holds great personal significance for me.

Dougie Wainwright

Day 1: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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Day 1: Reykjavik, Iceland

From Paul Bryers; August 17, 2025

Today, we embark on an expedition to Southeast Greenland and attempt to navigate a sea passage through the ice flows of the Northwest Passage (NWP), a journey scheduled to take 26 days.

The NWP is a maritime route connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans via the Arctic Ocean, adjacent to North America’s northern coast, utilizing Canadian Arctic Archipelago waterways. Essentially, we will sail from Nuuk, Greenland, to Nome, Alaska.

Sourced from internet; unknown author.

This endeavor is termed an “attempt” because, although Arctic sea ice recedes sufficiently during late July and August to enable strengthened vessels to pass, the remaining ice continues to move and accumulate, posing a risk of ships becoming stuck and damaged.

Our vessel, the MV Fridtjof Nansen, is a hybrid-powered expedition ship operated by HX Hurtigruten, featuring reinforced hulls designed to withstand impacts from ice flows and small icebergs. While capable of icebreaking, the F Nansen is not designed to break through thick, multi-year ice found in the Arctic.

Courtesy of HX Hurtigruten

I have complete confidence in HX and their new vessels, having sailed with them to Antarctica twice, and while they are bold in their expeditions, they prioritize safety.