Greenland

Day 2: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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Day 2: Overnight Cruising from Nuuk to Evighedfjord

From Paul Bryers, August 18, 2025

During the night, our cruise from Nuuk to Evighedfjord encountered rough seas in the Labrador Sea. However, upon entering the fjord in the morning, the sea became significantly calmer, although mist and light rain persisted.

The fjord is characterized by picturesque steep mountains and stunning tidewater glaciers. Notably, the Evighedfjord Glacier is situated at the far end of the fjord, featuring two distinct prongs, one of which has carved a path through the center of a 1500-meter mountain.

Google Maps of Fjord
Google Maps: The Evighedfjord Glacier

My group, Bearded Seals, embarked on a Zodiac excursion to the face of the glacier, where we observed a striking display of blue hues, comprising both transparent and compacted blue ice. The glacier face stands approximately 50 meters high and was actively calving, producing a loud roar and splash that were audible and visible from a distance of 500 meters.

Interestingly, our Zodiac guide was Dougie Wainwright, son of Robert Wainwright, a renowned rugby union footballer who was capped 37 times for Scotland and once for the British and Irish Lions. Coincidentally, Rob and his family reside on the Isle of Coll, a location that holds great personal significance for me.

Dougie Wainwright

Day 1: North West Passage Expedition on HX’s MV Fridjtof Nansen, August/September 2025

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Day 1: Reykjavik, Iceland

From Paul Bryers; August 17, 2025

Today, we embark on an expedition to Southeast Greenland and attempt to navigate a sea passage through the ice flows of the Northwest Passage (NWP), a journey scheduled to take 26 days.

The NWP is a maritime route connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans via the Arctic Ocean, adjacent to North America’s northern coast, utilizing Canadian Arctic Archipelago waterways. Essentially, we will sail from Nuuk, Greenland, to Nome, Alaska.

Sourced from internet; unknown author.

This endeavor is termed an “attempt” because, although Arctic sea ice recedes sufficiently during late July and August to enable strengthened vessels to pass, the remaining ice continues to move and accumulate, posing a risk of ships becoming stuck and damaged.

Our vessel, the MV Fridtjof Nansen, is a hybrid-powered expedition ship operated by HX Hurtigruten, featuring reinforced hulls designed to withstand impacts from ice flows and small icebergs. While capable of icebreaking, the F Nansen is not designed to break through thick, multi-year ice found in the Arctic.

Courtesy of HX Hurtigruten

I have complete confidence in HX and their new vessels, having sailed with them to Antarctica twice, and while they are bold in their expeditions, they prioritize safety.