This afternoon was truly enjoyable. Our AMA guide, Eyad, continued to work his magic making sure we saw the best of Jordan.
Our wonderful guide, Eyad Abu Zaid
Wadi (dry river bed) Rum is an area of outstanding natural beauty, now protected by the government.
Map of Area
We embarked on a journey in two vintage jeeps into the desert. The red dust was being raised by the incessant wind, creating little whirling dervishes, reminiscent of my recent visit to Turkey.
Ha, ha – not really, this is a Jordanian Security JeepYes, this is one of our jeeps…Being sand blastedRocking along on a Jeep and a prayer Our driver, Number One
Rising out of the sand were fascinating rock formations, created by the same sedimentation – river carving processes as the gorges at Petra.
Notably, the formation Seven Pillars of Wisdom, famous from David Lean’s 1962 film about Lawrence of Arabia, starring Peter O’toole, Alec Guinness, Anthony Quinn and Omar Sharif, was a highlight; this film was based in tge book the Seven Pillars of Wisdom.
Seven Pillars of Wisdom, featuring me as Lawrence of ArabiaSeven Pillars of Wisdom
Interestingly, more recent blockbusters have been filmed here – Star Wars, The Martian, Dune and Mission to Mars.
The red sand spread out forever around us..
I ascended a sand dune to get a 360° view of the desert – startlingly beautiful.
As I was on an adrenaline high, I ran back down the dune, sounding a bit like a chest clinic is in my future.
Panting puppy
We observed some ancient carvings on the rock that you could actually touch but, of course, you did not. Amazingly, they have survived the Bedouins and tourists.
The area of the carvings had reddest of sand and beautiful, weathered rock. While watching where I was putting my feet, I noticed the beautiful shadows created by the setting sun.
We met some lovely camels, especially a young camel called Calum The Camel, who was very inquisitive, wandered towards me and kissed my tattoo.
“Eye of the Camel”; thank you Calum The Camel
Finally, we went and took tea with a Sheik in his goat-hair tent . I purchased some lovely pomegranate incense for US $7 and a Jordanian red check headdress for US$10. I shall use these to my advantage….
And now it’s a 2 hr drive back on the windy roads to Petra.
We departed early from our hotel, the Petra Moon, and walked approximately 2 miles to the ancient Arabic city of Petra.
We initially passed through an area where people lived in caves until the middle of the 20th century and then through winding, narrow gorges.
The caves were utilized by Bedouins and other Arabic tribes until the Jordanian Government relocated them to nearby towns.
The gorges were formed by water eroding layers of sediment that had been deposited millennia prior when the area was below sea level.
The resulting gorge walls are multi-hued and tower hundreds of feet above the path to the city.
Along each wall, there are small, elevated half-pipes that channeled water down into the city, providing a better quality and more plentiful supply of water than is available to most Jordanians today.
The lines of sediment are very noticeable, and thin black lines depict the result of sedimentation from local volcanic activity.
As you reach the end of the gorge, you get a tantalizing glimpse of the Treasury, the most renowned ruin in the city. And then, suddenly, it’s there, rising majestically before you!
Looking up, I saw a silhouette of a man in Arabic attire. I climb up some rock steps to see what he was about, and gained a different perspective on the Treasury.
Notably, the Treasury was not actually a treasury – there are only a few small caves behind the impressive facade. It was more likely the tomb of some important Arab.
Continuing inward from the Treasury, you encounter other large facades …
Following our encounter with the Dead Sea’s saltiness, we proceeded southward along the shoreline and then southeast, traversing the hills to reach Petra.
The Dead Sea eventually gave way to the border with Israel, marked by barbed wire, watchtowers, and border guards on both sides.
En route, we caught sight of Lot and her children, famously turned into pillars of salt.
As we ventured into the hills, the road narrowed significantly, becoming very windy and steep. Nevertheless, our bus navigated the route successfully.
Along the way, we encountered goats, camels, dogs, and local residents, primarily Bedouins.
As we made our final approach to Petra, the sun set behind the mountains, casting a warm glow.
Today, I gained a unique geographical and political Arabic perspective on the Israel, Palestine, Jordan region, having previously explored Hebron, Bethlehem, Jerusalem, West Bank, Nazareth, Sea of Galilee, and Mount of Beatitudes from an Israeli perspective approximately three years ago.
Mount Nebo is a site of great significance, commemorating the Hebrew Prophet Moses, who led the Israelites out of slavery in Egypt. Moses is revered as the most important prophet in Judaism and Samaritanism, and one of the most important prophets in Christianity, Islam, the Baháʼí Faith, and other Abrahamic religions. So, an important man!
Notably, Mount Nebo is the area where Moses brought forth water from a rock and passed away at the age of 120. According to biblical narrative, Moses struck his staff to bring water from a rock twice. The first instance was in accordance with God’s instructions, while the second instance involved Moses striking the rock in anger, resulting in God’s punishment that Moses would not enter the Promised Land. This seems rather harsh to me, but you know what God’s are like when crossed.
The views from Mount Nebo is breathtaking, encompassing:
Dead Sea…
Jordan valley…
Palestinian West Bank…
Jericho ….
….and on clear days, the gleaming domes of Jerusalem upon the top of the hills on the horizon.
The church on the Mount houses and protects incredible ancient mosaics in remarkable condition.
This morning, accompanied by our knowledgeable guide Eyad, we explored the ancient city of Jerash.
Often referred to as a Rome away from Rome, Jerash is a remarkably well-preserved large-scale Roman provincial city, offering a unique glimpse into Graeco-Roman and Eastern cultures.
Notable architectural features include:
Hadrian’s Gate – named after the same Roman Emperor who commissioned Hadrian’s Wall in Scotland to mark the northern boundary of the Roman Empire.
A vast circus where chariot racing took place
Pillar-lined streets and sidewalks in the shape of a Cross
Cardo Maximus, a large oval plaza at the intersection of these roads
Temple of Zeus
Temple of Artemis
North and South Theaters
Damascus Gate
During our visit to one of the theaters, we encountered men dressed in traditional Jordanian attire playing bagpipes – specifically, Amazing Grace. Interestingly, bagpipe music is a popular genre in Jordan, a legacy of the Scottish troops stationed there.
The UK and Jordan enjoy a close relationship, partly due to the Hashemites, the royal family and leaders of Jordan, who received British support to overthrow Ottoman rule in the country during World War I and the Arab Revolt.
Beyond its archaeological significance, Jerash also hosts the Jerash Festival for Culture and Arts, bringing modern life and performances to the ancient stages.
Following a lavish and excellent lunch at a Lebanese restaurant, we returned to Amman to explore the Old City.
Amman’s old city, is the historic core of the capital, known for its ancient ruins, bustling souks, and cultural sites.
Key attractions include the Amman Citadel, perched on a hilltop, which offers panoramic views and archaeological remains from various eras, and the Roman Amphitheater – sight of many contemporary concerts.
Next, we ventured into the heart of old Amman to visit the market, where I was captivated by the vibrant colors of the fruit and vegetables.
We had a quick look at the local Mosque.
We made a brief stop to sample some traditional Jordanian sweets.
I took a secret photo of a traffic cop without getting arrested….
We met our AMA guide for the next four days, an unusually tall Jordanian who attributes his height to his mother, a Bedouin.
Today has been a leisurely day, which is welcome, as tomorrow will mark the beginning of a busy schedule with AMA that will last until October 24.
I have been chatting with St Regis staff, and they have shared that the Jordan tourism sector has been severely impacted by the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.
Fortunately, today’s news suggests that the worst of the conflict may be over.
Prior to the war, tourism accounted for approximately 15% of Jordan’s GDP.
However, due to the conflict, the number of US and European tourists has declined by about 65%, and hotels are currently only about 30% full.
While the situation in Gaza has clearly been far, far, far worse than here, it is still disheartening to see the Jordanian tourist industry so adversely affected.
Approximately 30 hotels have closed, resulting in the loss of thousands of jobs.
Reflecting this downturn, there are only seven AMA travelers participating in this Add-on Jordan Land Tour.
We will join the bulk of the group, consisting of, I guess, around 100 individuals, in Cairo on October 13.
For dinner, I visited the St Regis’ Tamara Restaurant, which serves authentic Middle Eastern cuisine.
My server was extremely helpful in assisting me with my menu selections, and I simply requested that he choose traditional Jordanian dishes.
My pre-dinner cocktail consisted of a Raki Julep, comprising Raki, Triple sec, Lemon Juice, Cranberry Juice, and Mint.
For dinner, I was served Hummus Beiruti, consisting of chickpeas puree, chopped parsley, mint, pickles, and olive oil.
This was followed by Tabbouleh, a dish made from chopped parsley, vegetables, bulgur, molasses, lemon, and olive oil.
The main course was Lamb Mansaf, featuring local lamb, Jameed yogurt, turmeric rice, nuts, and parsley.
This meal was paired with a Jordan River Shiraz, characterized by earthy, beet-like flavors and hints of melon.
Piggy goes wild in Amman, Jordan
Despite feeling satiated, the staff continued to present additional dishes, including spicy olives and roasted nuts.
I am thrilled to embark on this journey, as I have never flown Royal Jordanian before, nor have I visited Jordan. I thoroughly enjoy exploring new destinations, especially countries I have not previously visited.
Jordan is a low-middle income country, lacking the oil-rich resources of its Arab neighbors.
The flight was operated on an Embraer E190-E2, which seemed relatively small for a four-hour flight to the Middle East. The Business Class configuration was intriguing, featuring a 2-2 layout with each side staggered to provide additional legroom and recline.
There were numerous solo male passengers on the flight, many of whom had distinctive long eyelashes. Based on their passports, they appeared to be Jordanian. This was advantageous, as I received several compliments aniyt my eyelashes in Italy but it was getting a bit tired. I must correct a misconception – I am not a cow.
Dinner on board was exquisite, consisting of spicy fish with rice and other accompaniments.
For entertainment, there was a diverse selection of movies, and the e-Quran was also available.
As we departed Italy, I caught glimpses of familiar locations, including Terracina, the coastal town we visited during our stay at Casa Gregoria, Naples, Sorrento, and the Amalfi Coast.
Our flight path took us over Greece’s mainland and numerous unidentified islands, as well as Crete, Rhodes, and Cyprus.
Upon reaching the Israeli coast, we flew over Tel Aviv and the West Bank. The latter stood out due to its relatively limited street and house lighting.
As we began our final descent in the fading light of day, we crossed the Jordan River, which forms the border with Israel, and flew over Amman before landing.
Nice hotel and room – Signia. They take security seriously. Searched car inside and underneath before entry to hotel entrance.
As a point of note, it is not necessary to obtain an e-Visa for tourism purposes beforehand, as visitors are still required to proceed to the Visa-on-Entry line to receive a stamp.
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