By Paul Bryers, September 1, 2025

• Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, Arctic Canada.

I had anticipated our departure from Cambridge Bay last night, but this was not the case.

Apparently, we were awaiting the arrival of supplies by air, which landed around 10 am. These essential supplies, including fresh bananas, were subsequently transferred to our ship via zodiac.

Meanwhile, we embarked on zodiacs to visit the renowned Maud Memorial in Cambridge Bay. The Maud, formerly commanded by explorer Roald Amundsen, set sail from Kristiana, now Oslo, in July 1918, bound for the North Pole via the Northwest Passage. Amundsen successfully led the first expedition to navigate the Northwest Passage. However, the Maud never reached the North Pole under Amundsen’s command. Due to financial difficulties, he sold the vessel to the Hudson Bay Company in 1920, which utilized it as a floating warehouse until it sank in 1930.

The photograph depicts the wreck of the Maud as it appeared in the waters off Cambridge Bay in 2015.

In 2016, a team of four Norwegians launched the ‘Maud Returns Home’ initiative, rescuing the Maud from the shallow coastal waters of Cambridge Bay. The Maud successfully arrived in Farsund, Norway, in August 2018.

A stone cairn in Cambridge Bay commemorates the Maud.

As an aside, it reminds me of the cairn to commemorate the Battle of Culloden on Culloden Moor, Scotland, my birthplace.

By Paul Bryers, August 31, 2025

• Still Sheltering in Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, Arctic Canada.

We remain sheltered in Cambridge Bay as the storm outside appears to have been severe, but our skilled Captain maintained the vessel’s stability using side thrusters.

According to secret reports which were leaked to me, two Kelpies on vacation from Scotland attempted to lure the Captain and crew into the turbulent Ocean during the night but were unsuccessful
https://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/The-Kelpie/

This morning, Zodiac landings commenced as scheduled, with only a few white horses visible.

Near the shoreline, metal sculptures of a Musk Ox and Wolves were observed.

Unfortunately, I was unable to participate in the planned ATV excursion into the tundra. Despite the challenges HX faces in organizing excursions, there is clearly room for improvement. In defense of HX, they are providing a full refund.

Still my little yellow ATV and I had a few moments together which we will cherish forever.

Fortunately, the weather has cleared significantly.

By Paul Bryers, August 29, 2025

• Gjøa Haven, Nunavut, Arctic Canada.

Upon arrival by zodiac, we registered and met some of the friendly locals.

Gjøa Haven, also known as Uqsuqtuuq in Inuktitut, translates to “place of plenty blubber,” referring to the abundance of sea mammals in the area. Alternatively, it could also refer to some of us guests on MV Fridjtof Nansen who have been indulging in the Arctic cuisine. One guest even remarked that my t-shirts were too tight, a comment that was both shockingly rude and potentially true.

Gjoa Haven is renowned for its excellent dog sledding opportunities and diverse wildlife, including caribou, muskox, polar bear, geese, swans, falcons, and ducks. During our visit, we spotted some dogs. Crickets…

Historically, the town’s population has grown significantly, from 110 residents in 1961 to 1,349 in 2021, according to the census, as many Inuit have relocated from traditional camps to access healthcare and educational facilities.

The town comprises numerous cabins, each with its unique appearance.

The Naeselik Heritage Centre showcases various artifacts from the Inuit past, although it was extremely hot inside during our visit.

The community is served by the Gjoa Haven Airport and an annual supply sealift; this ship was in during our visit.

The area is home to CAM-CB, a North Warning System site for incoming missiles. Comforting.

By Paul Bryers, August 28, 2025

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When the Ice Weeps

The Arctic weeps in silence, its frozen crown undone.

White sheets that held the ages melt beneath the sun.

A polar bear drifts, hollow-eyed, on a raft too small to save, while shadows of the walrus fall into a rising grave.

The sea drinks what is vanishing, blue swallowing the white, and children yet unborn will ask why we did not fight.

The North once sang of stillness,
of cold eternal night – now it cries with breaking voices, slipping out of sight.

And well they might. In shame we hang our heads.

There is no second chance, there is only desolation.

By Paul Bryers, August 28, 2025

• Sunset, Nunavut, Arctic Canada

Another lovely sunset…

By Paul Bryers, August 28, 2025

• Pasley Bay, Nunavut, Arctic Canada

Today’s excursion was characterized by inclement weather, with persistent rain and mist. Despite these conditions, our scheduled landing at Pasley Bay proceeded as planned, although the long hike was cancelled due to safety concerns, specifically limited visibility for armed guards to spot approaching bears.

The waters exhibited a striking powder turquoise hue.

The shoreline comprised multiple raised beaches of flint, fractured by the frozen seas. The island was very bleak and sad; ghosts lingered in the thick mist.

The island had human settlement dating back thousands of years, with only stone ruins remaining today.

The island’s stones and rocks were adorned with vibrant, mustard-yellow “sunburst” lichens, as well as white and black varieties, creating a spectacular visual display.

The terrain featured a diverse array of ground plants in various hues.

The return zodiac trip started without a visual of the ship, but then it appeared and we all lived another day in the Northwest Passage!