By Paul Bryers, September 5, 2025

• Gordan, Alaska, USA.

We have been navigating towards Nome, Alaska, closely hugging the cold coast to avoid ice and adverse weather about 100 km further North.

Thick mist has reduced visibility, with whispers of polar breath across the otherwise silent waters.

Occasional Nordic sea creatures have emerged, but we have successfully deterred them utilizing our superior theatrical skills, courtesy of the God known as Magnus.

Currently, we are crossing the Canada-USA border.

Our decks are blanketed with snow and ice, with icebergs gently grazing the ship as they melt away. We are nearing the end of our expedition…..

By Paul Bryers, September 4, 2025

• SIGHTING BOWHEAD WHALE!!, Northern Territories, Canada, Cruising Towards Nome.

We caught a brief glimpse of a bowhead whale, also known as the Greenland right whale, Arctic whale, and polar whale.

It is a species of baleen whale belonging to the family Balaenidae and is the only living representative of the genus Balaena. It is the only baleen whale endemic to the Arctic and subarctic waters, and is named after its characteristic massive triangular skull (which can be seen in the first photo along with its two flaring nostrils), which it uses to break through Arctic ice.

Bowheads have the largest mouth of any animal representing almost one-third of the length of the body (as can be seen in the borrowed photo), the longest baleen plates with a maximum length of 4 m (13 ft), and may be the longest-lived mammals, with the ability to reach an age of more than 200 years. Fabulous!

Hopefully this is a sign of more whales to come!

By Paul Bryers, Sept 4, 2025

• Smoking Hills, Northern Territories, Canada, Cruising Towards Nome.

Well, I’m severely underwhelmed by Smoking Hills but then who wouldn’t be after ploughing through frozen seas and viewing a polar bear tear apart a seal.

We viewed Smoking Hills from the ship.

The fires result from autoignition of sulfur-rich lignite deposits. Weathering of the coastline of the area leads to the continuous exposure of new mineral deposits from the muds that make up the underlying geology. These are typically colored red when iron-rich.

By Paul Bryers, September 4, 2025

• ICE!! ICE!! Cruising Amundsen Gulf, Nunavut, Arctic Canada.

This morning, we were awakened by the loud sound of ice being crushed against our hull as we slowly entered and maneuvered through the icefield, comprising older ice pushed together by currents and newly forming ice.

The reflections of the sunrise on the ice and waters that our mighty ship had cleared was awesome to behold.

Our robust and reliable ship ploughed through the ice, accompanied by a crackling symphony of popping and banging sounds.

By Paul Bryers, September 3, 2025

• Cruising Amundsen Gulf, Nunavut, Arctic Canada.

Having successfully navigated the North West Passage, I am now reflecting on the experience. It was wonderful….. and a picturesque sunset provided a fitting conclusion.

While the experience was great, it was somewhat disappointing wrt to ice coverage and wildlife.

However, our Captain has just informed us, in a rather assertive tone, that we will not be visiting Herschel Island or Smoking Hills due to being behind schedule and the presence of ice ahead.

This development has generated considerable excitement amongst the guests..

Ice maps would indicate that the Captain is accurate and there is ice ahead.

By Paul Bryers, September 3, 2025

• Cultural Performance on Board, Ulukhaktok, Nunavut, Arctic Canada.

Well, what a fun early evening! Many of the locals came on board to give us a great performance of their traditions, lots of dancing and singing. Plenty characters!

Many people watched on very happily, including guests, the crew and guides. Some guests got carried away and started dancing with the performers.

Then we had some young local athletic performers and a lead guide, Thorstain, whose dance routine was quite unique…

By Paul Bryers, September 3, 2025

• Ulukhaktok, Nunavut, Arctic Canada.

The remainder of our journey (6 nights) will take us through more open waters along Alaska’s Northern coast, traversing the Beaufort and Chukchi Seas, Bering Strait and Sea, culminating in our disembarkation in Nome, Alaska.

We arrived close to Ulukhaktok early this morning.

Cabins litter the shore, each with their unique color and flavor. It looked pretty desolate early today as the mist was low and thick. In the afternoon there was a hint of sun and things perked up a bit. Mebbies its glorious in full sun..

Some hardy golfers are off to the golf course. However, the locals have warned that they have no balls; the crew have offered to provide wee rocks – inventive as ever.

The Anglican and Catholic Churches were in great disrepair – shame on Canterbury and The Vatican for not supplying monies to these communities to rebuild their houses of worship.

Interesting road name was observed….can think of a few people who should live on that road…

A short climb up a hill rendered views of the town and graveyard as well as a lovely, sandy windswept bay.